| 1.
What jeans size am I?
Unfortunately most trouser or jeans manufacturers these days don't size
their garments accurately. For example a size 34" trouser or jean
will more often than not actually measure closer to 36".
This is a marketing tactic known as 'vanity sizing', and is used to
entice the purchaser by leading them to believe they are a size smaller
than
they really
are.
This
practice
has spread across the board, and on women's sizes it has necessitated
a size 6 being created, when an 8 used to be the smallest UK size.
As you can imagine this has caused us many problems, as our sizing for
our jeans is based on accurate waist measurements. Please disregard
the size that you normally wear as we will ascertain your size.
As 90% of people are now a non-standard size, we make
the jeans to measure at no extra cost.
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2. How do I know my Original
jeans will fit?
With every order
we require six measurements, which will enable us to decide whether
or not you are a standard size. If
you provide us with these six simple measurements, it will ensure a
perfect fit. However, DO NOT try to measure
yourself or take measurements from an existing pair of jeans.
Our sizing is correct so a size 32" will measure 32" around
the waist (at 1" below navel). Please recheck this measurement - you may
be surprised!
These are the measurements we require, with some guidance on how to measure up:
1) Thigh: this should be taken at the widest point (approx 2" from
crotch). Ensure that your body is not twisted for any measurement and
keep your feet equally flat with both heels on the floor.
2) Front rise: this is the distance between the crotch and the top
of the centre front of the waistband. This should be taken from the
crotch
(at the point of the perineum) to 1" below navel (belly button).
It is essential for you to initially take the front rise measurement
to 1" below the navel, even if you require a lower cut rise. In this
case, ALSO give the shorter measurement.
3) Back rise: the distance between the crotch and the top of the
centre back of the waistband. This should be taken from the SAME
crotch point
(it may help to mark this point when you do the front rise) to the
small of the back, following the curve of the buttocks, not going
between
them!
4) Waist: run the tape measure around the waist going through the
small of the back (where the Back Rise was measured to) and dropping
at the
front to 1" below the navel.
5) Hip: This is the measurement
around the widest point of your posterior, not your actual hip bone.
Run the tape measure around your buttocks in a horizontal line from
the
base of the fly, just above the pelvic bone.
6) Inside Leg: Take the tape measure and measure
from the crotch (as per 2), down the inside leg to 1/2" below
the ankle bone for a narrow or straight cut leg, or to 1/2" from
the floor for a boot cut.
Please bear in mind that the final measurements we
agree on will be exactly what your jeans will measure. If you want
a looser fit, please measure your thigh and hip and adjust accordingly,
remembering that these areas will give a little with wear. Note that
the waistband
will not.
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3. What about my
size for other garments??
Because of the above mentioned confusion with garment sizing, we
will, with every order, send an email asking for certain simple
measurements to be supplied. This will help ensure the garments
will fit.
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4. Why are your
jeans unlined?
There are several reasons why unlined jeans are
preferable to lined. Firstly a better fit can be achieved, and
having leather next to your skin is not only more tactile, but
more hygenic
too, as it allows your skin to breath. Lining leather jeans creates
a barrier which will cause you to sweat, making them uncomfortable
and
unhealthy.
The primary reason that other manufacturers line their jeans, is
to help prevent them from stretching. All leather will stretch
a give to
a certain extent, some more than others (lambskin in particular,
is prone to stretching). The Brazilian and Japanese cowhide or
Italian horsehide that
we use, will stretch a little, but once they have moulded to
your shape they will not continue to stretch.
When they are new they should fit quite snugly, and we usually
advise for them to be worn around the house on the first couple
of occasions.
After a couple of wears they will mould to your shape and will
be a
comfortable fit.
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5. What is nappa?
We have seen many websites misleading customers by advertising
their garments as being made from 'nappa' leather, when it is clear
that
they
are not.
Quite simply, nappa is leather that comes from either sheep / lamb
or goat / kid. It is NOT cowhide (see question 3 below). As such,
it tends
to be softer than many cowhides, which makes it quite desirable.
Consequently, the term is frequently misused in order to make low
quality garments
seem to be of a higher quality.
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6. Why don't you use nappa for more of your
garments, for example, jeans?
While nappa is very soft and is suitable for certain garments,
there are three drawbacks to it.
Firstly, it stretches more than cowhide. This means that it must
be lined to prevent this from happening. It is therefore perfect
for our Clever Leather Skirt and
Jacket, which are both lined garments. However, as mentioned
in our jeans section above, lining on trousers/jeans prevents them
from
fitting as well as they could, as well as being unhygienic in not
allowing the wearer's skin to breathe.
Secondly, it is not as hard wearing as cowhide. The nature of jeans
is that they are likely to take a certain amount of punishment,
and nappa certainly doesn't lend itself to this.
Finally, as nappa comes from either a sheep or goat, the skin is
not particularly large. This means that it is unsuitable for providing
large
pieces of skin for items such as jeans. Consequently, any jeans
that are made from nappa tend to have ugly looking seams at, or
just above,
the knees.
Similarly, fitted coats made from nappa tend to be made up of a
large number of panels, which tends to ruin the cut and look of
the entire
garment.
This is a compromise that we are not prepared to accept. We take
the view that if the look of a garment is compromised by using
a particular
skin, then that is the wrong skin to use for that particular garment.
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7. Isn't nappa the softest, and therefore best,
leather available?
No skin can be described as the 'best available'. It all depends
on what that skin is to be used for, and what type of usage it
will receive.
Nappa is very soft, and the lamb nappa we use for our Clever
Leather Skirt and Jacket is particularly touchable. However,
as explained above, it is not suitable for fitted coats or jeans,
for
reasons of
size and the degree to which it stretches.
The softest skin we use is Japanese cowhide, a by product of Kobe
beef,
and simply the most tactile cowhide produced. This is a very expensive
skin that has great fluidity about it, and, as
it
is
a cowhide,
can be used to great effect for fitted coats (see Superior
Coat), as well as many other garments.
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8. Can I get samples of the skins you use?
Yes. Click here,
complete the form and we will post them to you.
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9. Do you use pvc?
No, all our clothes are made from genuine cowhide, horsehide or
lamb nappa.
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10. Do you have a shop?
We do not have a showroom, but we do have a studio based near Lewisham,
South London. Appointments need to be made in advance before you
visit.
Contact us at info@theultimateleather.co.uk to arrange an appointment.
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